ARTICLES
1. Growing Sarcochilus falcatus from Flask to Flowering: Ron Boyd
2. Watering, My Memory Guide: Ron Boyd
3. Growing Cymbidium Seedlings: Flask to Flowering: Ron Boyd
1. Growing Sarcochilus falcatus from Flask to Flowering: Ron Boyd
2. Watering, My Memory Guide: Ron Boyd
3. Growing Cymbidium Seedlings: Flask to Flowering: Ron Boyd
1. Growing Sarcochilus falcatus from Flask to Flowering.
Written by: Ron Boyd
GENERAL APPEARANCE:
An epiphytic orchid with large, thick leaves and long sprays, to 18 cm long, with large white scented flowers.
I have always had a fondness for Sarcochilus falcatus, mainly because of its lovely big white flowers and the sweet perfume.
When I started out growing native Sarcochilus orchids, I was told most species were fairly easy to grow, but several species were nearly impossible to grow.
One being falcatus and its different forms, most of the story related it to being short lived.
After several years of not bothering to try growing Sarcochilus falcatus, I was lucky to attend a talk by a group of amateur falcatus growers.
It was pointed out that if grown mounted on suitable mounts, falcatus plants would live to a good age. They would eventually form rather large clumps, returning lovely sprays of flowers in spring.
It was pointed out by some members that they were very difficult to deflask, and then get them to grow to suitable size to attach to mounts.
Most of the growers said they defasked the seedlings straight into treated orchid bark and then it was nearly impossible trying to stop the seedlings roots from rotting off.
Maybe that is why they are not freely available to be to buy. In fact rarely had I seen them listed in catalogues for sale.
One such method used by one nursery person was to mount the freshly deflasked seedling straight on treated hessian fixed in a suitable frame. (See photo No1).
Written by: Ron Boyd
GENERAL APPEARANCE:
An epiphytic orchid with large, thick leaves and long sprays, to 18 cm long, with large white scented flowers.
I have always had a fondness for Sarcochilus falcatus, mainly because of its lovely big white flowers and the sweet perfume.
When I started out growing native Sarcochilus orchids, I was told most species were fairly easy to grow, but several species were nearly impossible to grow.
One being falcatus and its different forms, most of the story related it to being short lived.
After several years of not bothering to try growing Sarcochilus falcatus, I was lucky to attend a talk by a group of amateur falcatus growers.
It was pointed out that if grown mounted on suitable mounts, falcatus plants would live to a good age. They would eventually form rather large clumps, returning lovely sprays of flowers in spring.
It was pointed out by some members that they were very difficult to deflask, and then get them to grow to suitable size to attach to mounts.
Most of the growers said they defasked the seedlings straight into treated orchid bark and then it was nearly impossible trying to stop the seedlings roots from rotting off.
Maybe that is why they are not freely available to be to buy. In fact rarely had I seen them listed in catalogues for sale.
One such method used by one nursery person was to mount the freshly deflasked seedling straight on treated hessian fixed in a suitable frame. (See photo No1).
Deflasking:
It is just a simple mater of taking the seedlings from the flask, rinsing off the agar, and then mounting them.
If I need to break the flasks, I use a 5 millimetre thick piece of stainless steel rod about 300 millimetres long. Just place it in the bottom corner of the flask and give it a sharp hit on the end, this usually results in the rod piercing the bottom of the flask. This may need to be repeated several times to break away the glass bottom.
Then the plants can come out easier, but mostly the seedling comes out without the need for this.
Never use the method of wrapping the flasks in cloth and using a hammer to smash the flask, as the impact can lead to severe bruising of the plants roots and leaves, causing the death of the plant!
The freshly bought hessian was first placed in boiling water several times, each time rinsing after being soaked. Final washing was in boiling water with added bleach.
Rinsed serval times and the hung on a washing line for about a week in the hot summer sunlight.
No soaps or detergents of any type were used; this resulted in a soft fluffy clean hessian sheet.
The Hessian was then cut to size and fixed solidly and stretched firmly to a wooden frame, measuring 300 mm by 300 mm, this would be large enough to take the 20 or so plants from the flask.
A thread was the cut and lifted, the freshly deflasked falcatus seedling was then placed under the loop and the thread gently pulled tight so to hold seedling firmly.
Or sometimes I pulled a couple of long threads from the hessian, and then using a large sewing needle, I just sewed loops over the plant and its roots. Tighten just soft to firm as to hold the roots against the hessian. (See Photo No.2)
It is just a simple mater of taking the seedlings from the flask, rinsing off the agar, and then mounting them.
If I need to break the flasks, I use a 5 millimetre thick piece of stainless steel rod about 300 millimetres long. Just place it in the bottom corner of the flask and give it a sharp hit on the end, this usually results in the rod piercing the bottom of the flask. This may need to be repeated several times to break away the glass bottom.
Then the plants can come out easier, but mostly the seedling comes out without the need for this.
Never use the method of wrapping the flasks in cloth and using a hammer to smash the flask, as the impact can lead to severe bruising of the plants roots and leaves, causing the death of the plant!
The freshly bought hessian was first placed in boiling water several times, each time rinsing after being soaked. Final washing was in boiling water with added bleach.
Rinsed serval times and the hung on a washing line for about a week in the hot summer sunlight.
No soaps or detergents of any type were used; this resulted in a soft fluffy clean hessian sheet.
The Hessian was then cut to size and fixed solidly and stretched firmly to a wooden frame, measuring 300 mm by 300 mm, this would be large enough to take the 20 or so plants from the flask.
A thread was the cut and lifted, the freshly deflasked falcatus seedling was then placed under the loop and the thread gently pulled tight so to hold seedling firmly.
Or sometimes I pulled a couple of long threads from the hessian, and then using a large sewing needle, I just sewed loops over the plant and its roots. Tighten just soft to firm as to hold the roots against the hessian. (See Photo No.2)
The lot was then watered in with fresh rainwater, and then placed in a shady position with plenty of fresh air movement. During the day they were kept moist by frequent misting.
One test I did was to use a “Kittee Litter Tray”; I filled it to a depth of 10 mm with water and sat the hessian frame with the plants attached on top of the tray.
This gave an extra amount of humidity below the plants and also encouraged some of the roots to grow downwards towards the water.
After one week the seedlings were then watered ever second watering with a weak solution of soluble organic fertiliser.
I do not like to use chemical fertiliser on mounted Australian Native Orchids as I have found the residual salt deposits build up on the roots, often cause the death of the plant.
Within several weeks, the roots started to grow and attach themselves to the hessian.
The fluffy natures of the hessian helped the new roots quickly attach themselves to the hessian. Some of the roots grew straight down through the hessian and seem to be doing well just exposed to the shade underneath the frame. After 9 month’s the roots were growing quiet well. (See photo No 3)
One test I did was to use a “Kittee Litter Tray”; I filled it to a depth of 10 mm with water and sat the hessian frame with the plants attached on top of the tray.
This gave an extra amount of humidity below the plants and also encouraged some of the roots to grow downwards towards the water.
After one week the seedlings were then watered ever second watering with a weak solution of soluble organic fertiliser.
I do not like to use chemical fertiliser on mounted Australian Native Orchids as I have found the residual salt deposits build up on the roots, often cause the death of the plant.
Within several weeks, the roots started to grow and attach themselves to the hessian.
The fluffy natures of the hessian helped the new roots quickly attach themselves to the hessian. Some of the roots grew straight down through the hessian and seem to be doing well just exposed to the shade underneath the frame. After 9 month’s the roots were growing quiet well. (See photo No 3)
From the flask of the original 20 seedling de-flasked, I lost only 3 of the very small ones.
From some flasks, the loss often is only the runts or very small plants.
The lot were left a whole season to grow to a size were they could be mounted satisfactory and grow on without too much of a problem.
By now the hessian was on a point of rotting away, it was easy to cut the hessian around the plants.
They were then mounted and held in place with fishing line being wound continually around the mount and plant covering all the roots and its leaves.
(See photograph No. 4)
From some flasks, the loss often is only the runts or very small plants.
The lot were left a whole season to grow to a size were they could be mounted satisfactory and grow on without too much of a problem.
By now the hessian was on a point of rotting away, it was easy to cut the hessian around the plants.
They were then mounted and held in place with fishing line being wound continually around the mount and plant covering all the roots and its leaves.
(See photograph No. 4)
I occasionally use live bush moss to cover the freshly mounted plants root system, this then encourages the roots too quickly establish them selves onto the mount.
Photo No. five (5) shows a well established two year old falcatus seedling using the bush moss.
Photo No. five (5) shows a well established two year old falcatus seedling using the bush moss.
The newly mounted falcatus seedlings quickly threw out new roots that soon attached them selves firmly to the mount used.
Eventually the fishing line could be removed once the falcatus seedling became firmly attached to the mount.
Now looking back on the whole learning exercise of growing falcatus seedling from flasks the obvious previous problems could clearly be seen.
In the wild falcatus grow on branches of trees in gullies and on sides of hills, plenty of fresh air and areas frequently kept moist by mists and rain.
In the wild the tiny seeds would land and only grow in places offering positions of moisture and good germinating, and future growing conditions suitable to this species.
We, as humans like to change their conditions to suit us. We try to get them to change and adapt to growing in pots filled with treated pine bark.
This they seem not too like too much, and their way of showing us they do not like such treatment, is to die.
Now with my newfound method of growing, I hope I will soon have a lovely collection of mounted Sarcochilus falcatus plants, forming clumps with beautiful bunches of sweetly perfumed white flowers in abundance. (See photo No 6)
Eventually the fishing line could be removed once the falcatus seedling became firmly attached to the mount.
Now looking back on the whole learning exercise of growing falcatus seedling from flasks the obvious previous problems could clearly be seen.
In the wild falcatus grow on branches of trees in gullies and on sides of hills, plenty of fresh air and areas frequently kept moist by mists and rain.
In the wild the tiny seeds would land and only grow in places offering positions of moisture and good germinating, and future growing conditions suitable to this species.
We, as humans like to change their conditions to suit us. We try to get them to change and adapt to growing in pots filled with treated pine bark.
This they seem not too like too much, and their way of showing us they do not like such treatment, is to die.
Now with my newfound method of growing, I hope I will soon have a lovely collection of mounted Sarcochilus falcatus plants, forming clumps with beautiful bunches of sweetly perfumed white flowers in abundance. (See photo No 6)
I hope to pass on my method of growing Sarcochilus falcatus to you all, it has worked for me so maybe you can give it a try!
Types of mounts preferred are very old, well-weathered fence palings, small braches off Sheoak (Casuarina spp) about 50 to 100 mm thick with bark still intact. Aged bark of the Cork tree (Quercus suber). The rougher the bark surface, the better for the root system to meander through.
With them mounted, they then could be hung in positions favourable to their growing conditions in the wild. Leaving valuable bench space available for other orchids
Fertiliser types:
I particular like to use organic fertilisers like Charlie Carp, Garden Party, Concentrated Seaweed extracts, all I have found to work very well.
I mix at about one half of the recommended strength and use every second watering during the growing season.
Good growing.
Ron Boyd
[email protected]
Types of mounts preferred are very old, well-weathered fence palings, small braches off Sheoak (Casuarina spp) about 50 to 100 mm thick with bark still intact. Aged bark of the Cork tree (Quercus suber). The rougher the bark surface, the better for the root system to meander through.
With them mounted, they then could be hung in positions favourable to their growing conditions in the wild. Leaving valuable bench space available for other orchids
Fertiliser types:
I particular like to use organic fertilisers like Charlie Carp, Garden Party, Concentrated Seaweed extracts, all I have found to work very well.
I mix at about one half of the recommended strength and use every second watering during the growing season.
Good growing.
Ron Boyd
[email protected]
2. Watering, My Memory Guide: Ron Boyd
Ah, easy you say, you only just have to water them all at once and the problem is solved!
Some say to pick up the pot and if it feels light, it’s dry, great if you have a fantastic memory to remember the wet/dry weight of every pot in your orchid house.
I do not use a hose but a two litre watering can with a rose spray head attached, this may seem slow but it makes sure each pot receives the right amount of water.
How many a seedling have you had die because you over watered or not watered them at all.
I like to use rain water when it is available, but have to rely on town water most of the year. I store this in 20 litre plastic buckets for at least one day, this helps to get rid of all the additives they use in the town water supply.
This is my Watering Memory Guide, as we grow older and grow more orchids in different size pots, different species that have different watering requirement, etc. The problem of when I watered each lot last arises, especially for me.
To overcome this problem I work on a system of tags, designated for each lot of orchids I am growing. (See photo 1.)
Ah, easy you say, you only just have to water them all at once and the problem is solved!
Some say to pick up the pot and if it feels light, it’s dry, great if you have a fantastic memory to remember the wet/dry weight of every pot in your orchid house.
I do not use a hose but a two litre watering can with a rose spray head attached, this may seem slow but it makes sure each pot receives the right amount of water.
How many a seedling have you had die because you over watered or not watered them at all.
I like to use rain water when it is available, but have to rely on town water most of the year. I store this in 20 litre plastic buckets for at least one day, this helps to get rid of all the additives they use in the town water supply.
This is my Watering Memory Guide, as we grow older and grow more orchids in different size pots, different species that have different watering requirement, etc. The problem of when I watered each lot last arises, especially for me.
To overcome this problem I work on a system of tags, designated for each lot of orchids I am growing. (See photo 1.)
I deflask and grow lots of seedling orchids; they need constant attention to their watering needs for the first year. In summer they need watering every one to two days, constant misting on hot days to keep the foliage damp as their root system has not developed enough to supply water needs from deep down in the potting mix.
In summer orchids of say, 50 mm pots may require watering every day. Other orchids in 80 mm pots maybe every two to three days, other bigger size pots maybe on a four or five day cycle.
I try to group each pot size together to make watering easier; I group all the 80 mm pots of Paphs together as it also makes watering easier to remember. These groups are given a tag showing a day last watered and last fertilized on. (See Photo 2).
In summer orchids of say, 50 mm pots may require watering every day. Other orchids in 80 mm pots maybe every two to three days, other bigger size pots maybe on a four or five day cycle.
I try to group each pot size together to make watering easier; I group all the 80 mm pots of Paphs together as it also makes watering easier to remember. These groups are given a tag showing a day last watered and last fertilized on. (See Photo 2).
I made these tags out of an old aluminium gold coloured blind, picked up cheaply at a recycle depot. I have cut them at about 100 mm in length, drilled a hole near one end and made up a ring out of 2.5 mm galvanized tie wire.
I put seven of these pieces onto each wire circle and write the seven days of the week on them, i.e. Monday, Tuesday, etc. I then hang them close to the group of orchids that they refer too.
On another wire circle I put a tag with “Fertilize last watering day” on one side and on the other side “Fertilize next watering day”. These I find help me greatly in trying to remember each group or different size pots I water every day.
Finally I put one tag on a wire circle and write the name of the orchid that they refer too.
Then the hardest part is now remembering to turn each tag over after watering or fertilizing, this I try to do on each group as I water. It may not be fool proof, but saves me a lot of worry and so far I have not lost a plant to over or under watering since I started using this system.
There is on the market, a "Moisture Probe” that measures the degree of moisture in the soil. Plant nurseries and farmers use them with great success, but maybe OK on the more compact Cymbidium mixes, but the other more open types of mixes may cause a problem trying to get accurate measurement.
I hope I have been able to pass on a few tips that may make your hobby of growing orchids more easier and enjoyable.
Cheerio and good growing.
Ron Boyd
[email protected]
I put seven of these pieces onto each wire circle and write the seven days of the week on them, i.e. Monday, Tuesday, etc. I then hang them close to the group of orchids that they refer too.
On another wire circle I put a tag with “Fertilize last watering day” on one side and on the other side “Fertilize next watering day”. These I find help me greatly in trying to remember each group or different size pots I water every day.
Finally I put one tag on a wire circle and write the name of the orchid that they refer too.
Then the hardest part is now remembering to turn each tag over after watering or fertilizing, this I try to do on each group as I water. It may not be fool proof, but saves me a lot of worry and so far I have not lost a plant to over or under watering since I started using this system.
There is on the market, a "Moisture Probe” that measures the degree of moisture in the soil. Plant nurseries and farmers use them with great success, but maybe OK on the more compact Cymbidium mixes, but the other more open types of mixes may cause a problem trying to get accurate measurement.
I hope I have been able to pass on a few tips that may make your hobby of growing orchids more easier and enjoyable.
Cheerio and good growing.
Ron Boyd
[email protected]
3. Growing Cymbidium Seedlings: Flask to Flowering.
An article by Ron Boyd
Growing Cymbidiums properly, must be one of the easiest and most rewarding hobbies, one could have.
My first Cymbidiums were from a couple of plants in 50 mm tubes, bought some 40 years ago.
This was my most rewarding part of the hobby, learning how to grow from a tiny plant to finally flowering it.
Over the years with knowledge gained from books and other experienced Cymbidium nursery growers, I refined my ideas to method as described below.
As a hobby grower, I found it a very easy and fast growing method.
It is cheap and easy to buy flasks of Cymbidium hybrids in either hobby size flasks; this usually is about 12 to 15 plants, or commercial size, usually about 30 to 40 plants.
Shared among a couple of friends, you could buy several different crosses in hobby size flasks per year.
This would give you a chance to grow maybe something very good and allow you to win on the show bench, also a chance at the champion Cymbidium seedling trophy.
Deflasking Cymbidiums is a very easy method, but if you are not willing to undertake this, most growers / breeders will deflask free.
It also makes them happier as often they save expenses of not sending heavy glass jars in packaging and freight.
On arrival, I will plant them straight away into my seedling mix; this consists of Ausgrow mini nuggets of treated pine bark, making sure the nuggets are moist.
One plant each into 48 mm square pots (see figure 1), making sure they are planted with the potting mix about 5 to 10 mm above where the roots form on the base of the plant.
My first Cymbidiums were from a couple of plants in 50 mm tubes, bought some 40 years ago.
This was my most rewarding part of the hobby, learning how to grow from a tiny plant to finally flowering it.
Over the years with knowledge gained from books and other experienced Cymbidium nursery growers, I refined my ideas to method as described below.
As a hobby grower, I found it a very easy and fast growing method.
It is cheap and easy to buy flasks of Cymbidium hybrids in either hobby size flasks; this usually is about 12 to 15 plants, or commercial size, usually about 30 to 40 plants.
Shared among a couple of friends, you could buy several different crosses in hobby size flasks per year.
This would give you a chance to grow maybe something very good and allow you to win on the show bench, also a chance at the champion Cymbidium seedling trophy.
Deflasking Cymbidiums is a very easy method, but if you are not willing to undertake this, most growers / breeders will deflask free.
It also makes them happier as often they save expenses of not sending heavy glass jars in packaging and freight.
On arrival, I will plant them straight away into my seedling mix; this consists of Ausgrow mini nuggets of treated pine bark, making sure the nuggets are moist.
One plant each into 48 mm square pots (see figure 1), making sure they are planted with the potting mix about 5 to 10 mm above where the roots form on the base of the plant.
This I found is the start of a valuable lesson, making sure the plant is planted deep enough, so when the new roots appear, they are covered and will grow quickly into the potting mix.
If planted at root level or above, often the plants will send out the roots but as the root tips are not covered, they will often never grow.
The plant will also be unstable and each bit of breeze will sway it and also hamper the formation of good root system into the potting mix.
This lesson should be remembered at each “Potting On” stage.
I then place the 48 mm tube stock into trays and place under 50% shade cloth. (See photo No.2)
If planted at root level or above, often the plants will send out the roots but as the root tips are not covered, they will often never grow.
The plant will also be unstable and each bit of breeze will sway it and also hamper the formation of good root system into the potting mix.
This lesson should be remembered at each “Potting On” stage.
I then place the 48 mm tube stock into trays and place under 50% shade cloth. (See photo No.2)
I then give the entire seedling a good flush of water to remove any dust and settle in the plants.
I then water the seedlings using a weak dose of organic fertiliser, such as Sea Weed extract, Charlie Carp or a product called Garden Party, a blood by-product treated from the WA Abattoirs.
This I give in a weak dose for the first couple of waterings, and then I use at the recommended strength, then about one month after repotting, I switched to my slow release fertilizer, this is the same slower 5/6 months type you can buy from Dot at Grumpy's shed, I like to deflask in spring around late September/ October and have all deflasking done before the hot weather approaches.
My slow release fertilizer program consist of about 5 to 6 pellets in the 48mm pots about a month after deflasking, then next lot is in or about the first week of January when the plants should be about 6 inches tall or better and can take a bit more fertilizer so I place about 8/10 pellets per pot, and the 3rd fertilizer of my yearly program is on St. Patricks Day I place about 8/10 as well, this should get them right through winter until they need repotting in spring.
The Cymbidiums will usually remain about 9 to 12 months in these 48 mm square pots, by then they should have leaf growth of about 200 mm + long.
The roots should nearly fill the small pots and be well formed. See small plant on the left in Photo Number 3.
I then water the seedlings using a weak dose of organic fertiliser, such as Sea Weed extract, Charlie Carp or a product called Garden Party, a blood by-product treated from the WA Abattoirs.
This I give in a weak dose for the first couple of waterings, and then I use at the recommended strength, then about one month after repotting, I switched to my slow release fertilizer, this is the same slower 5/6 months type you can buy from Dot at Grumpy's shed, I like to deflask in spring around late September/ October and have all deflasking done before the hot weather approaches.
My slow release fertilizer program consist of about 5 to 6 pellets in the 48mm pots about a month after deflasking, then next lot is in or about the first week of January when the plants should be about 6 inches tall or better and can take a bit more fertilizer so I place about 8/10 pellets per pot, and the 3rd fertilizer of my yearly program is on St. Patricks Day I place about 8/10 as well, this should get them right through winter until they need repotting in spring.
The Cymbidiums will usually remain about 9 to 12 months in these 48 mm square pots, by then they should have leaf growth of about 200 mm + long.
The roots should nearly fill the small pots and be well formed. See small plant on the left in Photo Number 3.
I now, “Pot these on”; the plant is easily removed by gently tapping the top of the pot with a small piece of wood, while holding the plant firmly near its base.
These seedling in the 48 mm square pots, I now “Pot On” into a 100 mm pot (deep style), I use a small treated bark mixed of 10 mm.
(Also see the large plant in Photo Number 3.)
Making sure the plant is potted deep enough to cover the bottom of the plant as described above. (Very important, as now this is the stage were the new side shoots will develop and they need to be coming out just below the mixes surface.).)
Reason for this is the roots need to be below the mix’s surface, so as the new roots grow out the tips will straight away grow quickly into the potting mix.
At this point many growers go wrong by planting the bottom of bulbous part of the orchid at surface level. If by chance the plant does grow it will soon form a fairly large root system and this will push the plant even higher above the potting mix.
This results in the new growth coming out above the potting mix and grow for a while but as its base is not in contact with the potting mix; its roots will most likely not form properly and grow down into the potting mix, end result is a very poorly grown plant.
After “Potting On”, I “Top Dress” each pot with about a spoonful of pelletised Blood and Bone, Chook manure Mix etc. (Called Organic Life), covering it over with a small amount of potting mix.
This should give the plant a good start to growing; I usually apply about 1 teaspoon of our slow release fertilizer to each pot as well.
Then give each pot a good flush with water to wash out any dust and help settle in the plant.
Place in your growing area, mine by now are big and strong enough to be place under the 30% shade cloth.
Now the best part is this pot will allow the plant to grow for about 12 months, by then it should have established its second growth and be well on the way to sending up its 3 growth, in some cases it maybe already be established.
“Pot On” to the next stage, the 150 mm pot, the space you are going to need will be more than treble to what was required for the 100 mm tubes.
Using the same procedure as described above on the 100 mm pots, “Pot On” into the 150 mm pot. Some of the pots of some clones can be so vigorous that often they can be potted on into 180 or 200mm pots.
The Cymbidiums should be able to be left for a further 12 to 18 months in these pots, most will likely flower in this size pot.
One tip I learnt from experience is when “Potting On”, sit the old part of the growth close to one side of the pot. Having the new lead growth pointing towards the centre of the pot, this way you take advantage of the extra room in front of the new growth.
By now, on average three to four years should have passed and most of the Cymbidium crosses if grown well should be in flower. I have had a fair few at three years of age, send up a spike, but the flower count is usually a bit low. (See photo No 4.). A further one to two years is required to produce the best out of the plant.
These seedling in the 48 mm square pots, I now “Pot On” into a 100 mm pot (deep style), I use a small treated bark mixed of 10 mm.
(Also see the large plant in Photo Number 3.)
Making sure the plant is potted deep enough to cover the bottom of the plant as described above. (Very important, as now this is the stage were the new side shoots will develop and they need to be coming out just below the mixes surface.).)
Reason for this is the roots need to be below the mix’s surface, so as the new roots grow out the tips will straight away grow quickly into the potting mix.
At this point many growers go wrong by planting the bottom of bulbous part of the orchid at surface level. If by chance the plant does grow it will soon form a fairly large root system and this will push the plant even higher above the potting mix.
This results in the new growth coming out above the potting mix and grow for a while but as its base is not in contact with the potting mix; its roots will most likely not form properly and grow down into the potting mix, end result is a very poorly grown plant.
After “Potting On”, I “Top Dress” each pot with about a spoonful of pelletised Blood and Bone, Chook manure Mix etc. (Called Organic Life), covering it over with a small amount of potting mix.
This should give the plant a good start to growing; I usually apply about 1 teaspoon of our slow release fertilizer to each pot as well.
Then give each pot a good flush with water to wash out any dust and help settle in the plant.
Place in your growing area, mine by now are big and strong enough to be place under the 30% shade cloth.
Now the best part is this pot will allow the plant to grow for about 12 months, by then it should have established its second growth and be well on the way to sending up its 3 growth, in some cases it maybe already be established.
“Pot On” to the next stage, the 150 mm pot, the space you are going to need will be more than treble to what was required for the 100 mm tubes.
Using the same procedure as described above on the 100 mm pots, “Pot On” into the 150 mm pot. Some of the pots of some clones can be so vigorous that often they can be potted on into 180 or 200mm pots.
The Cymbidiums should be able to be left for a further 12 to 18 months in these pots, most will likely flower in this size pot.
One tip I learnt from experience is when “Potting On”, sit the old part of the growth close to one side of the pot. Having the new lead growth pointing towards the centre of the pot, this way you take advantage of the extra room in front of the new growth.
By now, on average three to four years should have passed and most of the Cymbidium crosses if grown well should be in flower. I have had a fair few at three years of age, send up a spike, but the flower count is usually a bit low. (See photo No 4.). A further one to two years is required to produce the best out of the plant.
Usually on its first flowering you can get a good guide to its potential quality. If not too hot, you can put it on the club’s sales table.
My bark mix is an open type mix to suit our climate, it may require a bit more frequent watering, but it avoids problems when rainfall and humidity periods are high.
All my Cymbidiums, older than two years of age are growing under 30% shade cloth, open to the sun, rain, and wind.
I hope in some way you may learn a little on how easily it is to grow Cymbidiums, from tiny plants in flasks to flowering size. Give them ago, maybe one day you will be the proud owner of “Champion Cymbidium seedling of the Show”!
Now after all this most will likely say, why not grow them in a community pot.
Well, I did a trial on my first time on de-flasking Cymbidiums, of the 15 to 20 plants from each flask.
I placed 50% of the larger Cymbidiums together into a 150 mm community squat pot.
The other 50% smaller Cymbidiums were place into the individual 48 mm square tubes.
All then were placed in the same area and fertilised at the same rate.
After 12 months, the community pot plants were big enough to go into the 100 mm pots. So I decided to break up.
The problem was most of the plants had grown well enough, that the roots had filled the pot and had coiled around the inside.
Most would not go into the 100 mm pots because of the big root system, so they had to be potted up into the 150 mm pots. The few remaining seedlings were potted up into the 100 mm pots.
The 50% of the plants that had been grown in the 48 mm square pots were also “Potted On” into the 100 mm pots.
Now at this stage most of the plants were fairly even in their growth.
Twelve months later the rest of the 100 mm pots were potted on into 150 mm pots. Including the seedling from the original 48 mm sq. pots, I had marked them.
The community plants that had been potted into the 100 mm pots were also potted up into the 150 mm pots.
Then I separated them all, and then did a comparison measurement test on all of the 150 mm plants, the original smaller seedlings in the 48 mm square pots were so far advanced it was not funny. They eventually flowered one year before the other seedling from the community pot.
This method I find is to me, much better than the community pot method, as each plant is “Potted On” root disturbance is kept to a minimum. This gave the seedling no setback as the community pot system did.
It seems even seedling Cymbidiums resent root disturbance and sulk for a while before they then return to their normal growing pattern
Another advantage was that much less space was needed for the first 2 to 3 years.
For me as a hobby grower, the main advantage with the “Potting On” system, is no root disturbance and as many would appreciate, “the space”. About 80 plus of the 100 mm pots would fit into a space of 1 square meter against say 8 to 9 of the 180 mm pots.
I find that Cymbidium plants in general like to be well fed and continuously on the move, growing well.
They dislike being disturbed and hate being left for periods without water or good fertilizer.
Once they stop growing they take a while to kick start again.
After all the aim is to get the plants to reach the maximum potential growth as quick as possible without a lush soft growth caused by pushing them with a high nitrogen content fertilizer.
Good Growing
Ronald G. Boyd
My bark mix is an open type mix to suit our climate, it may require a bit more frequent watering, but it avoids problems when rainfall and humidity periods are high.
All my Cymbidiums, older than two years of age are growing under 30% shade cloth, open to the sun, rain, and wind.
I hope in some way you may learn a little on how easily it is to grow Cymbidiums, from tiny plants in flasks to flowering size. Give them ago, maybe one day you will be the proud owner of “Champion Cymbidium seedling of the Show”!
Now after all this most will likely say, why not grow them in a community pot.
Well, I did a trial on my first time on de-flasking Cymbidiums, of the 15 to 20 plants from each flask.
I placed 50% of the larger Cymbidiums together into a 150 mm community squat pot.
The other 50% smaller Cymbidiums were place into the individual 48 mm square tubes.
All then were placed in the same area and fertilised at the same rate.
After 12 months, the community pot plants were big enough to go into the 100 mm pots. So I decided to break up.
The problem was most of the plants had grown well enough, that the roots had filled the pot and had coiled around the inside.
Most would not go into the 100 mm pots because of the big root system, so they had to be potted up into the 150 mm pots. The few remaining seedlings were potted up into the 100 mm pots.
The 50% of the plants that had been grown in the 48 mm square pots were also “Potted On” into the 100 mm pots.
Now at this stage most of the plants were fairly even in their growth.
Twelve months later the rest of the 100 mm pots were potted on into 150 mm pots. Including the seedling from the original 48 mm sq. pots, I had marked them.
The community plants that had been potted into the 100 mm pots were also potted up into the 150 mm pots.
Then I separated them all, and then did a comparison measurement test on all of the 150 mm plants, the original smaller seedlings in the 48 mm square pots were so far advanced it was not funny. They eventually flowered one year before the other seedling from the community pot.
This method I find is to me, much better than the community pot method, as each plant is “Potted On” root disturbance is kept to a minimum. This gave the seedling no setback as the community pot system did.
It seems even seedling Cymbidiums resent root disturbance and sulk for a while before they then return to their normal growing pattern
Another advantage was that much less space was needed for the first 2 to 3 years.
For me as a hobby grower, the main advantage with the “Potting On” system, is no root disturbance and as many would appreciate, “the space”. About 80 plus of the 100 mm pots would fit into a space of 1 square meter against say 8 to 9 of the 180 mm pots.
I find that Cymbidium plants in general like to be well fed and continuously on the move, growing well.
They dislike being disturbed and hate being left for periods without water or good fertilizer.
Once they stop growing they take a while to kick start again.
After all the aim is to get the plants to reach the maximum potential growth as quick as possible without a lush soft growth caused by pushing them with a high nitrogen content fertilizer.
Good Growing
Ronald G. Boyd